Why is it that, sixty three years on, Emilio Pucci is still thriving as one of Italy’s most established fashion houses? Alongside the likes of Georgio Armani, Valentino and Versace, year after year their designs ooze luxury and glamour. Pucci’s biggest achievement is that even through decades of turbulent trends, they have stayed true to their jet-set, glamorous roots. The designs reflect their Mediterranean heritage using the finest Italian fabrics, bright colours and vibrant prints.
This season’s collection is packed full of rich jewel tones; warm purples, scarlets and electric blues, using the staples of navy and black to create a full look which perfectly fits the hard-working independent clientele.
Peter Dundas, appointed Artistic Director in 2008, has done the vast history of the brand proud, using beautiful Italian silk, innovative feather and fur embellishments and intricate sequins and lacework to spice up the feminine, relaxed curves of this season’s evening wear.
This collection also gives a nod to the company’s vibrant history of design innovation by going back to the staple 1970s tailoring with boxy military jackets, high-waisted, wide-legged trousers and strong, sculptural necklines. Experimenting with high, cut-out, plunge and v-necklines, as well as many one-shoulder dresses, Dundas has put together a truly eye-catching collection.
Everything in this line works for the image of Pucci, from the “super saturated hues” of the silk designs, to the re-emergence of full length dresses and skirts. Even the accessories are glammed-up with feather tassels on statement messenger bags, buckled, strappy, snakeskin heels lined in mink and beaver for extra indulgence, and opulent fringed scarves, re-styled as mini-dresses or work tight around the neck. The coats, an essential element this season, are equally sumptuous, with fur linings and trims, luxury tailoring, and on-trend aviator jackets and snakeskin trench coats.
The collection’s “luxury bohemia” is evident throughout, especially in the elaborate trims and fringing on everything from shoes and bags to dresses, scarves, coats and even trousers. As well as a nod to the lace-up details which will feature heavily in Pucci’s spring/summer 2011 collection.
By far the start of the catwalk, as far as I am concerned, was a glitzy, fringed, sleeved mini-dress with an experimental neckline which would look at home both on the red carpet and on a night out. Fans of previous collections include Kate Hudson, Sienna Miller, Eva Longoria Parker and Kylie Minogue, and I am sure that Pucci’s celebrity fan-base will grow even more with the launch of this collection.
The figure-hugging dresses, tailored trousers and luxury coats are set apart from other fashion houses’ collections, not only by the sheer indulgence, but also by the relaxed, experimental, figure-loving flair which is unique to this fashion house.